High Tide At The Lighthouse

So I hit the road at 5am, and pulled into Waves around 11.30. I made great time, 340 miles in 6.5 hours.
The word is Robby Naish is supposed to be on the OBX this weekend. Wouldn't it be cool if came down to the south facing beaches for tomorrows Beast Of The East Wave Challenge!

I pulled into Avon around lunch time and hung out with Andy at Sailworld. Then over to see Olaf and Margaret at Avon Sail House They let me demo a No-Limitz mast, which is the proscribed mast for my new Simmers. I must admit the 5.6 looked better on this mast rather than the Ezzy.

It pretty much rained intermittently throughout the day, but it was breezy in the rain lulls. So around 4pm, I cruised down to the lighthouse to check out the surf.

It was pretty much dead high tide, and the wind was NE mid teens with gusts to maybe 20. If I could make it out, it looked sloggable. However, high tide and side onshore wind = heavy shorebreak. The current wasn't all that tough, but the tide that raced back down the rather steep beach tended to want to sweep you off your feet into the incoming shore pound. Additionally, there was virtually no wind down there on the inside, so it was pretty sketchy! On top off that, the ideal launch window was in front of some fisherman, so I was forced to launch from a less desirable area. I rigged the 5.6 with the 109 RRD. Bottom line, didn't make it out. Denied twice. That being said, its all good. All I really wanted to acheive was to get my feet wet, feel the boom in my hand and the wind in my sail, and sort of get my sea legs back before tomorrows Wave Challenge. So it was mission accomplished, even if I had to take a few on the head. Here is a short video documenting the punsihment:




Nice senior couple stood and watched as I got worked in the shorebreak. Of course when I came in and shook the stones out, they came up to ask the standard questions, followed by my response:


Nice Older couple: Boy its rough out there, I cant believe you went out.
Me: Well sir, there isn't enough wind on the inside to get out at high tide.

Nice Older couple: How long have you been doing this sport?
Me: A little over 20 years sir.

Nice Older couple: Do you do that thing we see on tv where you fly the kite?
Me: Uhmm, no.

Nice Older couple: Did you hurt yourself out there?
Me: No, its all good sir.

Nice Older couple: Are you crazy?
Me: lol.

I'm all for providing entertainment, even when it has to come at my expense.

Wave Riding Rules Of The Road-My Unique Experience

Sharing the surf with other sailors is a critical aspect to wave sailing. Bill has a couple of excellent posts here and here which pretty much spell out the fundamentals for the first time wave sailor, as well as the rules that dictate who gets first dibs on the wave, etc. Courtesy, respect, and safety are common themes.

But as with all things in life, there are grey areas, and its probably impossible to document every scenario that's could possibly happen out on the water.

Case in point, a great session we experienced back in September. Indeed Bill touches on the accepted decorum for the exact scenario I was involved, as well as the rules that apply. But I'd like to give you my experience and perspective.

So here is the way the events unfolded that day. Mind you, I’m a newbie out in the waves, so to some extent, you might understand how my vision is rather narrow, grip is often white knuckled, and I may or may not be aware of EVERYTHING and EVERYONE that is in my immediate proximity. It just the way it is as you pay your dues and figure it all out. You’re not entirely cognizant of everything you should be, and ultimately will be, as you gain more experience and time in the surf. It’s just the way it is.

Now having said that, here is how it went down. There where five of us out sharing the waves that session. I was coming in toward the beach, looking for a wave. I found one, pumped, bent the knees, tried my best, but missed the darn thing, and fell out the back. Now this day the surf had some size, and when you fall out the back in bigger surf in side off conditions, there is frequently a wind shadow behind the wave, and I dropped in like a dumb ass. To complicate this, I was on like the first or second wave, meaning there were more coming. And as I said they had some size. So the anxiety and heart rate is increasing. You with me?

I’m down in the water, I think I had the sail cleared, in the water start position, and I look behind me. You guessed, the next wave, bigger than the one I missed, was walling up and bearing down on me. Get up and go right! Yep, I was able to water start before getting mowed. But wouldn’t you know it, just as I was able to stand up on the board, my friend was just at the top of that wave, literally right above me, ready to drop in on this really sweet wave. Put yourself in his straps. You’ve basically caught this great wave, ready to drop in and go down the line, but you couldn’t see that I was down in the water and out in front of it, and I pop up right as you’re about to catch. It all happened so fast.

From my perspective, when I was down in the water, it was a no brainer. It was water start asap or you break your gear. Plus, I couldn't see him, and in fact didn't know he was there. I was after all down in the water, and you really can't see much more than the macking swell about to mow you. As I said the waves had size. From his perspective, I could see how he could think I snaked his wave.
All I heard was a certain expletive as I water started and caught what by all rights was his wave. To add insult to injury, it was a really sweet wave, one of the best of the day, and I came away giddy. When I kicked out after the 4th or 5th bottom turn, I knew that I was gonna have to apologize. But I must also admit I was smiling. It was after all a rather unique geo-political incident, and that wave ride was so sweet. I'd gone from gettin mowed and possibly breaking my gear, to catching the best ride of the day, all in like 30 seconds, albeit at someone else's expense

So I ask you, who had the right of way?? What would you have done?

As it turns out, we had a good laugh out of it (I think). But what I found out later as to who had right of way may surprise you. It did me. Basically, I screwed it up, by missing my wave. So it was on me to take the punishment by getting mowed. I was wrong to take Ken’s wave. Or should I say, Ken didn’t deserve to get his wave taken because I screwed up and missed my wave. Two wrongs don’t make a right so to speak.

So by rules, next time in a similar situation, I should stay down in the water and take that wave on the head, and pay dues for missing the other.

Headin to Hatteras tonight for the Wave Fest Wave Challenge. If you can make it down, it’s not too late to register! There is a solid forecast for the weekend, and I’m stoked to get back in the waves!

Tropical Storm Hana

Here is the complete text of the story I wrote for the Oct/Nov 2008 issue of the New England Windsurfing Journal. You can get a copy at your locale shop, or you can subscribe! A two year subscription is a measly $20! Support those who support the stoke!

Logo High



Humbled By Hana

The windless streak stood at 4 weeks, and then Hanna paid us a visit. It was the perfect setup; tropical circulation, yet not quite a cat one. Wind addicts up and down the East coast no doubt found it hard to sleep Thursday Sept. 4th. I drove to Hatteras from Maryland Thursday night after work, pulling over at a rest area to catch for a few hours of sleep along the way.

I must admit I was excited, and nervous, at the same time. I have this mental image of a Storm whipped Hatteras, The Graveyard of the Atlantic, Diamond Shoals coyly waiting to ensnare the careless. Images of Bill Bell going sub-orbital during Gabrielle, or Stuart Proctor and Andy McKinney on mast-high bombers, a current strong enough to sweep away the careless, and no safe zone from which to catch your breath. Its all on, 110%, with no margin for error. I tried to assuage my concern by telling myself, “I’ve sailed huge winter surf in Hawaii, I can do this”.


The venue for Friday Sept 5th was The Cove. For me, this was a very intimidating venue, what with the waves crashing on the shoals for as far as you can see. I’d read so much about The Cove, and about the recent access issues. I remember reading Dana’s story on his sesh during Isabelle, Bill Bells session during Gabrielle, and more recently Keith McCulloch’s during Cristobal. So many epic sessions that the venue has almost achieved a mythical quality.
Keith McCulloch

Charles Lategano


Every sailor in Hatteras was there; the absolute best Kiters and Windsurfers on the east coast. I was in awe of the riders, and of the conditions.


Bill Bell looks on as Keith McCulloch catches a nice one

Sail sizes ranged from 4.5 to 5.5. The buoy on Diamond Shoals later would show the waves to be 10-12 feet, and while experienced Hatteras riders may not have considered the conditions all that big, I’m not ashamed to say that I was quite intimidated. I struggled, and never made it out past the big ones. I was denied each and every time. That’s not to say I didn’t try. I found the wind frustratingly light right where you needed there to be some power: thru the heaviest part of the impact zone. On top of that, the current coming round the point was like a conveyor belt ready to take your sorry ass down to Frisco. I’d did ok milking my way first few sets of white water. But as I approached the bigger stuff, I did everything wrong. I stared right at that last big one as it crumbled. You’re not supposed to look at the breaking sections, but should cast your gaze around to the shoulders where safety and a path beyond awaits. Not me this day, I was wide eyed, and my mouth was probably open, aghast. Of course your body follows the head, and I went right into the sections I shouldn’t have. I think you know what the results where.
Lounge on the inside with not much wind and a strong current current



It’s such an acquired skill, one that only comes from lots of time on the water in similar conditions, and growing your confidence. Its not that I wasn’t a good enough sailor this day. After all, I’ve sailed big surf in Hawaii. But Hawaii has nothing on the east coast in terms of getting out clean. There is no current in Hawaii, and usually plenty of juice right off the beach. Also, I’ve seen shore break at the Canadian Hole tougher than the shore break you’ll most likely see in Hawaii. I never had trouble getting out in Maui. But Hatteras has a way of humbling you. It did me.

In hindsight, I think I had psyched myself out the night before on the drive down with those intense images floating around in my mind. I regret not being able to get out, and wasting the epic conditions, but its all good, gotta pay those dues and slowly raise the personal bar. I’ll hit it hard next time. So I tried to remain upbeat and positive. This was after all a multi-day weather event, and there would be more fun and games the next day.

By 11am on Saturday, the rain had moved off and away, leaving brilliant sunshine, and winds hovering around 40 knots, with some gusts hitting 50! Early on, the ocean was a closed out maelstrom, so most everyone sailed The Canadian Hole. Mid three meter sail sizes were the call, and the conditions where very “gorge” like. Donny Bowers was a stand out this day. He was tossing huge forwards on the inside.
Donny Bowers


Keith McCulloch was also exceptional, getting huge floaty airs.


It was pretty intense. For me, it was one of those days where I considered it a victory just to sail away from my gybes.



As the day grew on, I began to get somewhat comfortable with the conditions. Funny, I found tacking easier in the 3.5 conditions. So to some degree, I was able to get my mojo back, albeit in the baby pool.

As low tide approached around 4pm, the ocean began to clean up nicely, so a bunch of us decided to drive down to Old Lifeguard Beach and check out the surf. Bill Bell was first to drive out onto the beach, and the called with the report: 5.0 conditions, minimal shore break, and the waves had some pretty good size.
Bill Bell


They were however often walling up and dumping with increasing frequency, so it turned out to be a challenge getting out. Keith McCulloch gave me some invaluable advice. With the side off conditions and the strong current, you really need to resist the natural tendency to stand on the fin and burn off the beach at the natural upwind angle. Because what happens is, you hit that current, and if you continue to try to make it out at an upwind angle, the current kills the apparent wind, and you bog down, like in quicksand. You’re a sitting duck to get mowed. You absolutely have to keep one foot up by the mast base, and push that board off the wind and go with the current, at a down wind angle relative to the side off conditions. Its easier said than done because the side off wind sort of wants to pitch you over the nose when you bear off like that. It did me, twice. But on the third try I finally made it out over the final set wave.

Once on the outside, you can stand on that fin again, and burn your way back up wind, and make up for the lost real estate you had to sacrifice just to make it out. Thanks for the tip Keith.

Once on the outside, I was pretty amazed at how much water was moving out there. In the troughs, you not only couldn’t see the beach, you couldn’t even see the horizon! This is such an amazing sport. The learning curve never really ends. There are so many new moves to try, different venues, etc, that I’ll never tire of it.

Exploring Ocracoke Island

We took the ferry over to Ocracoke last Saturday. It was one of those days where for both the outbound an inbound trip, we pulled right up and onto the ferry with no wait.



Southernmost tip Of Hatteras Island

Approaching Ocracoke

Once you get onto the island, you have basically a few miles of coastline before you get to the village.

And its basically mile after mile of spectacular coastline, with grand dunes being the only thing that separates the highway from the white sand and warm blue water.

As we explored, I could envision pirates in the 18th century setting up a camp in lee of these dunes.

Ah, to be a kid again and play pirates!

sorry about that diversion. I just love that scene. I wanna be a pirate.













A refreshing swim in the ocean always rejuvinates me



Here is a slide show from our visit to Ocracoke Village

Back on Hatteras, and the east facing beaches where still being hammered by pretty heavy surf

Spectacular White Water

My wife and I are debating which shot is most impressive, and I'd like to enlist some objective opinion, so I need your help. Which one of these water sprays is most impressive? Also, can you figure out where these spots are? For anyone who correctly guesses at least two out of the three location(s), I'll send you a Live2Sail sticker!
Leave a comment!




Ken and Wes, I have your Free Form Award(s). Get in touch with me so we can arrange to get those to you. Wes, perhaps there will be a session at Mayo or North Beach and we can hook up there!